By Isabella L. Bird
I left the Panjāb railroad approach at Rawul Pindi, obtained my camp equipage, and travelled in the course of the grand ravines which bring about Kashmir or the Jhelum Valley by means of hill-cart, on horseback, and by way of house-boat, attaining Srinagar on the finish of April, whilst the velvet lawns have been at their greenest, and the foliage used to be at its most up to date, and the deodar-skirted mountains which enclose this fairest gem of the Himalayas nonetheless wore their iciness mantle of unsullied snow. Making Srinagar my headquarters, I spent months in traveling in Kashmir, part the time in a local house-boat at the Jhelum and Pohru rivers, and the opposite part on horseback, camping out at any place the surroundings used to be so much attractive.
By the center of June mosquitos have been rampant, the grass was once tawny, a brown dirt haze hung over the valley, the camp-fires of a mess glared during the scorching nights and misty moonlight of the Munshibagh, English tents dotted the panorama, there has been no mountain, valley, or plateau, in spite of the fact that distant, unfastened from the clatter of English voices and the informed servility of Hindu servants, or even Sonamarg, at an altitude of 8,000 ft and tough of entry, had capitulated to lawn-tennis. To a visitor this Anglo-Indian hubbub used to be insupportable, and that i left Srinagar and plenty of type pals on June 20 for the uplifted plateaux of Lesser Tibet. My occasion consisted of myself, a completely efficient servant and satisfactory interpreter, Hassan Khan, a Panjābi; a seis, of whom the fewer that's stated the higher; and Mando, a Kashmiri lad, a typical coolie, who, below Hassan Khan's education, built into a good traveling servant, and later right into a clever khītmatgar.
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Among the Tibetans by Isabella L. Bird